Saturday, September 30, 2023


The promise of a dry, bright day called us out for a drive and a walk. Our arrival at the dam car park disturbed a party of long-tailed tits (10+), which flew out calling from the plantation and circled high above the moorland - an incongruous sight in those vast, open spaces - before settling back in the conifers.

Greger spotted two birds flying away from us which he thought were black grouse, but I missed them.  Two whooper swans and a couple of mallards were on the loch, and a bird hovering above a distant ridge turned out to be a male kestrel. Greger kept saying there was a larger bird above it, but I failed to get onto it and he wasn't sure if it was the golden eagle that I spotted next. At some point, he also called out a bird flying below the skyline with, he thought, a white rump - but again, I failed to see it.  


The eagle was a juvenile, the white on the wings and the tail being very conspicuous; it quartered the hillside for a while and then landed on a jutting rock near the summit (at least a kilometre away from us).


Another raptor was flying around, sometimes near the eagle, sometimes above it - and now and then slipping back behind the shoulder of the hill; it was too far away to identify through the bins but the one picture I managed suggests hen harrier. Can't be sure, though.


We kept looking back on the return walk to see the eagle still sitting on the rock. From the dam wall I took a last look through my bins and saw a smaller raptor still flying around near it; I took a picture despite Greger's incredulous protestations that it was much too far away - but in fact, when zoomed in as much as possible, the image obtained showed that it was a red kite! All in all, quite a raptorish day.  

Sunday, September 24, 2023

Looking across the bay from the high pull-in at Gruinard we could see at least 50 black-throated divers in a loose, loafing flock.


Yesterday: A fraught pelagic spent mostly at the upper rails with all the problems that brings - cold hands, watering eyes, shaky optics - brought glimpses of several whales (probably minkes), a few pods of dolphins, some Manx and sooty shearwaters, and four great skuas. My new camera certainly allows me to locate and follow birds better than the old one, thanks to an improved viewfinder; otherwise, I don't get on with it very well yet. 

By the time I got to Stornoway I was tired and fed up. As it was Saturday, there's a longer turnaround time, so I walked to my right from the ferry terminal and found a seat overlooking the water where I ate my sandwiches. A herring gull landed on the wall and hopefully watched me eat. It had one dark eye, and one pale-irised adult eye. A curlew flew past low. I then walked on to the Coastguard Station, and there in the messy area sloping down to the water - rock armour decked out with detritus both natural and manmade - a flash of white caught my eye and betrayed the presence of a fly-catching wheatear.


The dandelion-like wildflowers were a rich golden yellow, with dense white clocks. Hawksbeard? Sow thistle? I'm still looking them up. Anyway, the wheatear cheered me, and I didn't bother too much about whether it could be a Greenlander; the criteria regarding the identification of this race seem to change with every article I read. Seven primary tips were visible, but the bird didn't strike me as being unusually large.


The return trip brought more tantalisingly brief whale sightings - I've been spoilt for evermore now, having had a minke breach right in front of my eyes! I willed it to happen again for the cetacean watchers on board, but it wasn't to be. And I failed dismally yet again to spot a petrel. Greger says I would see more if I didn't try to photograph everything and I know he's right. My camera - no, more accurately my blog, has become a tyrant.

Thursday, September 21, 2023

Yesterday: Greger was driving over to Inverness for his Spanish course, and I decided to go east as well, back to Chanonry Point on the off-chance I would see skuas or even the large shearwater again. I stopped at Avoch (pronounced, apparently, "Och") to use the loo and debated whether I should spend some time there, it was so lovely; there was no wind, it was warm, and the sea was as calm as the proverbial mill pond.  But Chanonry would be busy on such a nice day and I didn't want to have to queue to park, so I carried on - and found a few spaces still free.

The shingle spit was very busy. Now, I know that this is a public beach and people are entitled to walk their dogs on it - but loads of owners were clearly here for the dolphins because they were loitering with the rest of us on the spit and gazing hopefully at the sea; so the dogs weren't exactly being walked, and as a result some were getting bored and tetchy. There was whining, there was barking, and one small dog yapped constantly until its owner got up and walked it around for a bit before sitting down again - whereupon the dog resumed its yapping. There are posts on Trip Advisor extolling the place for its peace and quiet. Hmmm. 

A few Sandwich terns fished here and there. It was growing very warm, and the water was a lovely pinky-blue, making a nice background for a red-throated diver doing some preening and wing-flapping. 

But there were no shearwaters for me today. I scrubbed up another shot of my putative Cory's from the last visit; this is no better than the other pic but at least it gives a different angle. There is a good shot of a Cory's here on highland birds.scot, so I'm reasonably confident I did see and snap it! 

After just over three hours, the wind was getting up and I decided to leave. At Avoch, I pulled in and walked along one of the harbour walls; the sea was now wind-whipped and rough, and water splashed over the side as the waves broke. At the Tore Roundabout I turned onto the A835 and after a while I spotted a white Tesla in a lay-by. When it sped off ahead of me I guessed it was Greger and that he'd been tracking me on his Finder app - which is exactly what had happened. But he stopped at Silverbridge for the loo, so I got home first - just. Oh, and this time I didn't see any dolphins.


Sunday, September 17, 2023

The beach and the machair at Achnahaird brought a single curlew and a flock of small waders in flight - ringed plovers probably. As I walked back across the cliffs in a slight drizzle, hoping for waders to be brought in by the weather, a duck came flying into the bay and landed on the water. I cheered up when I realised it was a common scoter - probably a juvenile.


The scoter then tucked its head back and went to sleep - only waking up when a diving shag surfaced right next to it. It seemed to be drifting to the left, so I walked on to the car park and eventually got some closer photos there.


Also feeding in the bay were a black-throated diver, a cormorant, and two razorbills.

Friday, September 15, 2023

Greger fancied a trip over east, so I suggested Chanonry Point. It was coming up to high tide and there were loads of birds around; auks resting on the water, gannets cruising overhead, a few turnstones on the jetty, and common terns making fishing forays. The trouble at this lovely spot is that one is apt to be distracted by dolphins - and we both clicked away as a couple of bottlenoses rode the bow wave of a large cargo ship making its way down the Moray Firth (Fort George in the background).

   

The top photo was taken by Greger, testing out the multiple-shooting feature of my new camera, while I snapped the lower one with my old camera. The Canon PowerShot SX70 HS isn't really all that different from the SX60 - except for the viewfinder, which is much improved. I've only ever used the multiple shooting on the old one once - and that was by mistake. I don't really like that machine-gun rattle (it's particularly irritating when someone else is doing it quite close to you!) but I'm coming to realise that it might be necessary in order to get halfway decent pics of fast-moving seabirds. Dunno.

Anyway, I wish I'd used it when I spotted, way up in the sky, some terns being harried by a dark slender form which was clearly a skua - and not a bonxie.



It would be nice to think it was a juvenile long-tailed skua but I suppose it was more likely to have been an Arctic. The other frustrating sighting was of a bird flying away low over the water which to me looked like a shearwater - a large one. I wasn't ready, the camera was on the wrong setting, and the few pics I grabbed were mostly from the back as it headed towards Fort George. The bird must have banked in front of that headland and perhaps stayed in the area, but I obviously lost it at that point as this is the last picture I took.


It's not a gannet or an immature gull. It could be a Cory's shearwater; apparently one was seen here today. Blast! Wish I'd spent more time trying to spot it again.

We drove on to Cromarty and parked at the Udale Bay lay-by. The place was teeming with geese - greylag, pink-footed, Canada, and one barnacle; so, quite a spectacle - but nothing special seen. 

Monday, September 11, 2023

The rain cleared away at midday and we enjoyed a walk along the beach and round the machair, seeing four curlews and a few ringed plover and dunlin. A wader went winging maniacally away towards the sea with a trilling call - I've no idea what it was. As we ate lunch at Badentarbat, dolphins were leaping far out towards Tanera Mor. Back at the junction lay-by I saw a redshank in the channel and some small waders on the far bank. Walking down past the rams' field I leaned on the gate and spotted two sanderling.....


.....which was nice because I've seen hardly any this year.

Sunday, September 10, 2023

It was a monochrome sort of a day, with almost constant rain falling as we drove down the coast to Aultbea. There was nothing to see there so we started to make our way back, pausing at various lay-bys. At Mungasdale, a party of black-throated divers sailed, lounged, preened, and dived.


There were a dozen or so of these with one juvenile among them, and two great northern divers further out.

As we drove back along Little Loch Broom, a bunch of people staring out over the loch alerted us to a disturbance in the otherwise calm water which could only mean dolphins; we'd never seen dolphins in this loch, so Greger let me out and then drove on to our intended stop in the monument lay-by. 


 

Given that I had relatively close views (from the side of the A832!), the pictures I got are pretty abysmal; but the dolphins were fast-moving and the light was not brilliant. I walked along to the lay-by where I found Greger watching the action with his bins. The feeding frenzy had eased off and the pod had broken up, with some coming up the loch closer to him. There was only sporadic activity now, and a general movement back down the loch. Bye-bye.


The day before, my first whooper swans (two) and wigeon (4) of the autumn were on Loch Droma.

Tuesday, September 05, 2023

A minke whale breaching to the north of the ferry was the sighting of the day.


But that wasn't until 3.30 pm, on the return journey. In the morning we hadn't gone far from Ullapool before the cry of "Dolphins!" was heard - and the water seemed full of them, leaping their way up the loch. The decks were crowded on this gorgeous day, and I couldn't get near a rail for love nor money. Never mind, there was plenty of time yet.

I roamed about, scanning the sea between people's heads, and nipping eventually into vacated spaces. I had several glimpses of whales among lounging/frenzy-feeding gulls and gannets, and a couple of great skuas flew past at a distance. On the far side of the Minch porpoises were spotted several times, and a flock of Manx shearwaters took off from the water. I had to stand at the top of the steps to snap these before they disappeared behind the lifeboat.


The Coastguard tug Ievoli Black was in Stornoway harbour - and, horror of horrors, they've painted it red!


Looked much better in blue.

The ferry wasn't quite so full on the return trip, but the upper rails were popular and I stayed on the lower deck. At least there you have a wider view - and, standing at the side rail facing north, I had just been twisting round to scan the wake when I turned back to see an enormous splash right in front of me. A man with a dog next to me had seen it too and alerted other people. I got the camera ready and, luckily for us, the whale breached again - and again.....




I caught seven breaches with the camera. The cropped image at the top of the blog was the penultimate one, and things are already looking murky; while my last picture shows the whale being swallowed up by a haar - under cover of which it could, for all I know, have carried on merrily breaching.


About ten minutes later we came out of the mist and had warm sunshine and blue skies back again.


But the whale of course was long gone.

Friday, September 01, 2023

The ferry was busy, with clusters of people at both upper rails, so I stayed on the lower seating deck. Looking out to the north at a feeding frenzy of gulls and gannets I caught sight of a whale (11.35). It was too brief to say what it was (although probably a Minke) and it didn't reappear while I was watching. Just over an hour later (12.41), when I had moved from the side rail to the back, I realised belatedly that some excitement among other observers on the side rails had been caused not by dolphins, but by a whale - although I didn't hear anyone say which whale it was. I caught sight of blows way behind us and without much hope, leaned down slightly to aim through the top two bars of the safety rail; there appeared to be two individuals surfacing close together. I wonder if the people on the distant sailing boat saw them.





The blows sometimes looked quite tall and narrow (as if from a fin whale), but after looking at images online I think the whale(s) I caught in the photos has/have the distinctive shape of a humpback's dorsal fin, although the blows never looked "bushy" to me (i.e. as wide as they are high).  Still - very exciting! Approaching Stornoway and looking into the sun, I saw a dense raft of shearwaters. I'd seen a couple of Manxies and one sooty shearwater in flight, but it was difficult to say from my scan of these birds or my poor pictures, which they are - or if there any "specials" present. At any rate there must have been a couple of hundred shearwaters - and this was to be the highlight of the trip as far as birds went.

On the return journey, I spotted whale-blowing towards the Shiant Isles but it was too far away to make out anything more. However, this picture of a minke whale came as a surprise, as I don't recall seeing it (picture timed at 14.17, so just quarter of an hour out from Stornoway)!

A group of six or so people armed with various optics took up the short rail, while another group was in possession of the corner of the lower seating area on the same side of the ship. I'd thought at first the upper group were cetacean watchers by virtue of their headgear: either no hats, or brimmed ones, while the lower group, almost all of whom sported baseball caps, were probably birders. But both groups seemed entirely focused on whales and dolphins, and when a whale was spotted back towards Lewis there was much shouting between the groups, with one man on the upper deck yelling "Two of them - bulls!" Crikey, how on earth could he tell? LATER: They might have been seeing orca, in which case the males stand out by virtue of their very tall dorsal fins.

There was one amusing moment for me when I spotted an Arctic skua chasing kittiwakes over the wake of the ferry. I lost it, scanned wildly, and relocated it. At the same instant a woman to my left remarked to her companion "There it is!" and I was pleased that one person at least was interested in birds. But her next comment "Oh yes, they're much bigger than dolphins" had me scratching my head (metaphorically speaking) - until I realised that instead of referring to the skua, she'd spotted another whale. I promptly lost the skua for the second time and never did manage to see the whale! Oh well, it had been a good day.


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