Wednesday, October 02, 2019
Bla Bheinn (Blaven)
This is a low Munro on the Isle of Skye and handily close to the road; but rising as it does from the shores of Loch Slapin (an inlet of the sea), it requires all its 3045ft (928m) to be climbed (well, give or take a metre or so as you drive up a little way into the nice new car park).
Long-tailed tits were seen as we set off beside the wooded gorge - but there was no time to look for anything else. The ridge ahead looked fearsome but like most walkers (as opposed to experienced scramblers or climbers) we were just going up the top on the left.
A good made-up track (this is a very popular hill) took us up into Coire Uaigneich. A small raptor seen hovering against the sky then diving down across the distant rock face proved to be a male kestrel. This is only the second kestrel I've seen on a Scottish hill-walk.
Greger found the path that leads up towards our top, which soon became a steep stream of scree. Thinking to avoid this, I opted for a path to the right which started on hard rock and grass; but it then became a gully with a couple of narrow places where we had to scramble; it was sort of fun but we didn't like the idea of coming back this way. Eventually we emerged onto open ground again and continued the sliding struggle with the scree.
Soon we were looking across to Clach Glas and down onto the narrow linking rib known (I learnt from climbing websites) as the Putting Green. This is not a route for walkers!
Meanwhile, the walkers who'd passed us were having trouble with, but eventually getting up, an awkward scramble in the rock outcrop above. We lazily followed them to the same spot (we'd noticed them looking for other ways up before returning to this one so assumed it was the only option), but although Greger managed it, I couldn't. It involved sort of straddling a huge sloping boulder that was wedged high up between rock faces, and then grabbing the sharp edge at the top and pulling yourself over it; but with my dodgy hips and knee it was impossible. I felt annoyed with myself - after all, one party that had passed us were a family with two children under ten years of age, and a blooming dog - which they'd had to lift up onto the boulder. I walked back a little way and thought the sloping rock face above looked okay; I scrambled up a short way and was able to walk past the troublesome boulder and then scramble down. Pride restored!
After that it was an easy walk to the summit, where we found a circular triangulation pillar with the FB number S9751. Circular triangulation pillars are found mainly in Scotland and are known as Vanessas, after the company (Vanesta) that produced the cardboard tubes used to cast them (info from ordnance survey.co.uk - Trig pillar trivia).
And beyond were the pinnacles and arêtes of the fabled Cuillin Ridge.
A distant pipit mystified me, as it seemed dark and smoky enough for a rock pipit. "Well," said Greger helpfully, "it's on a rock."
It's the second time I've seen a possible rock pipit up a hill - it took off and flew directly over us with a single sharpish call. A male stonechat was briefly seen just after this - at least I'm confident of that ID!
Soon we were looking across to Clach Glas and down onto the narrow linking rib known (I learnt from climbing websites) as the Putting Green. This is not a route for walkers!
A bit further up our own path, and people were beginning to catch us up (as usual) so we stopped for a drink and a rest in the company of ravens and let the speedy walkers get past. Greger recorded the scene with his smartphone as I snapped a raven on top of a rock pinnacle.
Eventually there was a view of Garbh-bheinn at the other end of the ridge, sweeping down to form elegant cols with two neighbouring hills - the further, pointy one, being Marsco.
Meanwhile, the walkers who'd passed us were having trouble with, but eventually getting up, an awkward scramble in the rock outcrop above. We lazily followed them to the same spot (we'd noticed them looking for other ways up before returning to this one so assumed it was the only option), but although Greger managed it, I couldn't. It involved sort of straddling a huge sloping boulder that was wedged high up between rock faces, and then grabbing the sharp edge at the top and pulling yourself over it; but with my dodgy hips and knee it was impossible. I felt annoyed with myself - after all, one party that had passed us were a family with two children under ten years of age, and a blooming dog - which they'd had to lift up onto the boulder. I walked back a little way and thought the sloping rock face above looked okay; I scrambled up a short way and was able to walk past the troublesome boulder and then scramble down. Pride restored!
After that it was an easy walk to the summit, where we found a circular triangulation pillar with the FB number S9751. Circular triangulation pillars are found mainly in Scotland and are known as Vanessas, after the company (Vanesta) that produced the cardboard tubes used to cast them (info from ordnance survey.co.uk - Trig pillar trivia).
And beyond were the pinnacles and arêtes of the fabled Cuillin Ridge.
Through the bins, I eagerly sought out the Inaccesible Pinnacle - a narrow spine of rock affixed to the upper flank of Sgurr Dearg and rearing above the summit, requiring a (usually) roped climb up and an abseil down in order to bag the Munro. I know I'll never do the InPin, but it was still exciting to see it.
We now had an uninterrupted view of those deliciously curving ridges and cols, this time with Ruadh Stac also in the picture. At the foot of Ruadh Stac lies Loch an Athain.
Making our way back down we somehow bypassed the obstructive boulder without realising it, finding an easier scramble through the rocks; and we also managed to avoid the narrow gully further down. The views were stupendous although, as is often the case, misty towards the sea.
Over the head of Loch Slapin stand the Eastern (Broadford) Red Hills; these hills are composed mainly of granite while the Black Cuillin (including Blaven) are composed largely of dark gabbro. (I don't mean to sound didactic - I've just learnt this stuff, and add it so that I'll remember it!) From left to right, hills are: Beinn na Cro, Beinn Dearg Mhor, and Beinn Dearg Beag.
Down at the road again I added hooded crow and grey heron to the day list. It hadn't been a great birding walk but it was memorable for the views and the ruggedness, and for being the only island hill-walk we've ever done; and if we never do another Munro, then this was a good one to end on.
// posted by Christine @ 1:26 PM 
