Saturday, April 24, 2021

Beinn Liath Mhor a' Ghiubhais Li

We've been up this hill on four previous occasions. Three times it was a there-and-back walk through the plantation, and once a round walk with a descent over Meall Daimh. I've always thought it would be nice to carry on from the top, following the gently-dipping ridge to the south-east - and today we planned to do just that. However, a strong easterly wind was forecast so to avoid both this and the unpleasantness of walking into the sun on such a bright day, we started at the other end. Greger parked his car at the bridge (Fannichs car park already full) and we drove on in mine to the wind-farm road.

Wheatears and meadow pipits flitting about close to the steep gravel road were expected, but we were surprised when two ringed plovers were flushed from a small pool; they scuttled away but didn't fly - a new bird for my Scottish hill-walking list.


We didn't know what it would be like underfoot on the moorland but at least the road gave us a good dry start, probably up to the 400m contour. The turbines were turning and provided eerie company - but we quite liked them. Behind them, Meall Mhic Iomhair looks enticing, with its col linking to an unnamed top - but we're going to follow the road round to the right, to gain the ridge further north.

The moorland was actually relatively dry and, without too much plant growth yet, the going was good. A golden eagle appeared in the sky ahead, flying swiftly along the ridge to our left and being helped on its way by a territorial raven.


A pool containing several dead frogs kept me occupied for a while; they appeared to be encased in jelly.


Happily, a wheatear spotted soon afterwards was very much alive.


Soon we headed up the slope to our right and gained the ridge, where we found the kind of terrain I'd hoped for. The walking here was splendid.



We kept scanning ahead, hoping for ptarmigan or even dotterel running across the stony ground - but there was nothing. However, just to be walking along this broad ridge with stupendous views in all directions, was a tonic. A red grouse was flushed and went winging rapidly over the grass and heather with a soft cluck of protest. Now and then a gust of icy wind would hit us from behind, but on the whole it was less windy than expected, and in any case we found a sheltered spot to have lunch overlooking Loch Glascarnoch.


After lunch we dropped down to a spacious col before the last climb up the Corbett.


From the cairn at the eastern end of the plateau we looked ahead to the summit. Earlier, we'd spotted a couple of walkers there; but they were long gone, and we saw no-one else.

We dropped down from the summit, picking our way carefully among moss-covered boulders; and there, roughly between the 600m and 550m contours, were two ptarmigan.


Lower still, in the boggy area below the boulders, Greger pointed out a golden plover at the edge of a pool.


After a steep, wet, grassy stretch, it was a relief to reach the track; and then it was just a case of plodding down to the main road. Willow warblers and chaffinches were seen/heard in the plantation, and sand martins were swooping over the river just beyond the gate. A good walk.

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